
Taquería Los Cocuyos
Mexico City, Mexico
The read// why locals go
On Bolivar in the historic centre, Taqueria Los Cocuyos runs the taco counter that Mexico City cooks treat as the benchmark for offal. Everything happens in a metre of griddle: suadero kept at a low simmer, tripe and longaniza worked to order, small handmade tortillas doubled under each portion. Tacos land at about MXN 35 and the trade builds through the evening, when kitchen staff and night workers come off shift. There is no seating and no ceremony, which is a large part of why it has kept its reputation for so long.
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Bolívar 58, 06060 — Mexico City
Bolívar 58, 06060 — Mexico City
The read// why locals go
On Bolivar in the historic centre, Taqueria Los Cocuyos runs the taco counter that Mexico City cooks treat as the benchmark for offal. Everything happens in a metre of griddle: suadero kept at a low simmer, tripe and longaniza worked to order, small handmade tortillas doubled under each portion. Tacos land at about MXN 35 and the trade builds through the evening, when kitchen staff and night workers come off shift. There is no seating and no ceremony, which is a large part of why it has kept its reputation for so long.