Daruma Kushikatsu
Osaka, Japan
The read// why locals go
Daruma claims to have invented kushikatsu, and still fries the skewers in Shinsekai, the Osaka district that grew up around them. One rule is posted everywhere and enforced without exception: dip your skewer in the communal sauce once, never twice. Beyond that it is fast, loud and cheap — battered and breadcrumbed skewers of meat, seafood and vegetables, ordered a few at a time, roughly ¥1,500 for a full meal. Shinsekai is the unpolished, old-fashioned quarter of Osaka and this is its emblematic food, eaten shoulder to shoulder at the counter by local workers who come back most weeks without thinking about it.
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Ebisu-Higashi 2-3-9, 556-0002 — Osaka
Ebisu-Higashi 2-3-9, 556-0002 — Osaka
The read// why locals go
Daruma claims to have invented kushikatsu, and still fries the skewers in Shinsekai, the Osaka district that grew up around them. One rule is posted everywhere and enforced without exception: dip your skewer in the communal sauce once, never twice. Beyond that it is fast, loud and cheap — battered and breadcrumbed skewers of meat, seafood and vegetables, ordered a few at a time, roughly ¥1,500 for a full meal. Shinsekai is the unpolished, old-fashioned quarter of Osaka and this is its emblematic food, eaten shoulder to shoulder at the counter by local workers who come back most weeks without thinking about it.