Chez Etienne
Marseille, France
The read// why locals go
Chez Etienne is a wood-fired pizzeria in Le Panier, the old quarter above Marseille's Vieux-Port, and it runs entirely on its own terms. There is no printed menu and no card machine: you are told what there is, which means pizza from the oven and the Marseille classics that go with it. Rue de Lorette is a steep, narrow Panier street, and the room is small, loud and shared. Around EUR 14 buys a proper meal, cash in hand. Its reputation in the city is enormous and entirely word of mouth, so arrive without a plan and be prepared to wait. Marseille has slicker restaurants and very few that feel this much like the city.
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Opening hours
Rue de Lorette 43, 13002 — Marseille
Rue de Lorette 43, 13002 — Marseille
The read// why locals go
Chez Etienne is a wood-fired pizzeria in Le Panier, the old quarter above Marseille's Vieux-Port, and it runs entirely on its own terms. There is no printed menu and no card machine: you are told what there is, which means pizza from the oven and the Marseille classics that go with it. Rue de Lorette is a steep, narrow Panier street, and the room is small, loud and shared. Around EUR 14 buys a proper meal, cash in hand. Its reputation in the city is enormous and entirely word of mouth, so arrive without a plan and be prepared to wait. Marseille has slicker restaurants and very few that feel this much like the city.