Lacrimi și Sfinți
Bucharest, Romania
The read// why locals go
Lacrimi și Sfinți, "tears and saints", cooks contemporary Romanian food on Strada Sfântul Ștefan, built almost entirely from Romanian producers and half-forgotten ingredients. The project is a serious one: Danube fish, mountain cheeses, game and old grain varieties, handled with modern technique rather than served as heritage. The room is spare and quiet, which fits a menu that shifts as supply does, and the wine list stays Romanian throughout. Mains sit around 45 lei, high by Bucharest standards and modest by almost any other. Among people who cook in this city it is the reference point for what a Romanian restaurant can be once it stops copying French templates and looks at its own country instead.
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Sfântul Ștefan 30, 021594 — Bucharest
The read// why locals go
Lacrimi și Sfinți, "tears and saints", cooks contemporary Romanian food on Strada Sfântul Ștefan, built almost entirely from Romanian producers and half-forgotten ingredients. The project is a serious one: Danube fish, mountain cheeses, game and old grain varieties, handled with modern technique rather than served as heritage. The room is spare and quiet, which fits a menu that shifts as supply does, and the wine list stays Romanian throughout. Mains sit around 45 lei, high by Bucharest standards and modest by almost any other. Among people who cook in this city it is the reference point for what a Romanian restaurant can be once it stops copying French templates and looks at its own country instead.