
Tsunahachi
Tokyo, Japan
The read// why locals go
Tsunahachi has been frying tempura in Tokyo's Shinjuku since 1923, and a century of repetition shows in every piece. Tempura restaurants live or die on timing — batter kept thin, oil held at temperature, each item lifted at precisely its own moment — and this kitchen has had a hundred years of practice at it. Seafood and vegetables come over rice with miso soup, in sets running to about ¥2,200, which for tempura of this standard in this part of the city is remarkably fair. It is a Shinjuku institution in the literal sense: the same address, the same craft, for a century.
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Shinjuku 3-31-8, 160-0022 — Tokyo
The read// why locals go
Tsunahachi has been frying tempura in Tokyo's Shinjuku since 1923, and a century of repetition shows in every piece. Tempura restaurants live or die on timing — batter kept thin, oil held at temperature, each item lifted at precisely its own moment — and this kitchen has had a hundred years of practice at it. Seafood and vegetables come over rice with miso soup, in sets running to about ¥2,200, which for tempura of this standard in this part of the city is remarkably fair. It is a Shinjuku institution in the literal sense: the same address, the same craft, for a century.