O Trovador
Coimbra, Portugal
The read// why locals go
O Trovador cooks the food of the Mondego valley inside a 12th-century building on Largo da Sé Velha, beside Coimbra's old cathedral. Açorda de bacalhau — salt cod worked through soaked bread — and ensopado de borrego, lamb stewed and served over bread, are regional dishes that ask for patience rather than technique, and the kitchen gives them the time they need. Around €24 a head. The square outside is the steep, stone heart of the upper town, and the room fills with families marking occasions alongside locals who simply want Coimbra food cooked the way the region cooks it.
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Largo da Sé Velha 15, 3000-383 — Coimbra
The read// why locals go
O Trovador cooks the food of the Mondego valley inside a 12th-century building on Largo da Sé Velha, beside Coimbra's old cathedral. Açorda de bacalhau — salt cod worked through soaked bread — and ensopado de borrego, lamb stewed and served over bread, are regional dishes that ask for patience rather than technique, and the kitchen gives them the time they need. Around €24 a head. The square outside is the steep, stone heart of the upper town, and the room fills with families marking occasions alongside locals who simply want Coimbra food cooked the way the region cooks it.