Osteria Stallo del Pomodoro occupies two-century-old stables on Largo Hannover, named for the tomato market that once filled the square beside it. The kitchen cooks traditional Modenese food from local, seasonal ingredients, with pasta and dessert made in house and a card that is rewritten as the season turns. The cellar runs past five hundred labels, which in this corner of Emilia reads less as a boast than as a regional habit. Gluten-free and vegetarian eaters are catered to rather than tolerated. There is one Stallo del Pomodoro and no branches anywhere else — a single osteria in the middle of a city that takes its cooking seriously, run on relaxed terms.
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