Osteria del Treno
Milan, Italy
The read// why locals go
Lombard cooking of the unfussy, well-sourced kind, served in a Via San Gregorio building that once belonged to the city's railway workers. Osteria del Treno calls its card a menu of contemporary tradition: saffron risotto and tagliatelle with Piedmontese beef ragù around 14 to 16 euros, second courses mostly 16 to 20, several of them built on Slow Food Presidio ingredients. There is no tasting menu and no ceremony — you order à la carte, one dish at a time, the way an osteria is supposed to work. The vegetarian plate gets the same attention as the meat. A Milanese institution that still prices itself for its own neighbourhood.
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Via San Gregorio 46, 20124 — Milan
The read// why locals go
Lombard cooking of the unfussy, well-sourced kind, served in a Via San Gregorio building that once belonged to the city's railway workers. Osteria del Treno calls its card a menu of contemporary tradition: saffron risotto and tagliatelle with Piedmontese beef ragù around 14 to 16 euros, second courses mostly 16 to 20, several of them built on Slow Food Presidio ingredients. There is no tasting menu and no ceremony — you order à la carte, one dish at a time, the way an osteria is supposed to work. The vegetarian plate gets the same attention as the meat. A Milanese institution that still prices itself for its own neighbourhood.