Trattoria Sostanza
Florence, Italy
The read// why locals go
Trattoria Sostanza, open on Via del Porcellana since 1869, is Florence's oldest working trattoria and still one of its plainest rooms. Paper on the tables, a copper-panelled kitchen in full view, benches shared with whoever else booked that sitting — the design has not been updated because there is nothing to update. What the kitchen does is old-school Florentine: a handful of dishes, cooked to order in butter and fire, sent out without garnish. Prices sit a step above the neighbourhood trattorias at around €32 for a main, which is roughly what a century and a half of reputation costs. Reserve well ahead; the room seats very few and has never pretended otherwise.
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Via del Porcellana 25, 50123 — Florence
Via del Porcellana 25, 50123 — Florence
The read// why locals go
Trattoria Sostanza, open on Via del Porcellana since 1869, is Florence's oldest working trattoria and still one of its plainest rooms. Paper on the tables, a copper-panelled kitchen in full view, benches shared with whoever else booked that sitting — the design has not been updated because there is nothing to update. What the kitchen does is old-school Florentine: a handful of dishes, cooked to order in butter and fire, sent out without garnish. Prices sit a step above the neighbourhood trattorias at around €32 for a main, which is roughly what a century and a half of reputation costs. Reserve well ahead; the room seats very few and has never pretended otherwise.